
Podcast

On day five in Podor, Fatou returns to the Fort de Podor for a quieter look, considers the town's layered history from colonial trade to the present, checks on her CIE application,…

On day four in Podor, Fatou climbs the ramparts of Fort de Podor, eats lunch at Restaurant chez Marie, cools off at SISTERHOOD Coffee shop, and checks in on her CIE residence card…

Fatou spends her third day in Podor at high water, crossing the river to Île à Morfil by pirogue, visiting the flooded gardens, and ending the day at a riverside café with the musi…

Fatou spends the day in Podor's weekly market, sampling street food and watching the river trade at high water. She reflects on the music of Baaba Maal, the colonial trading post h…

Fatou continues up the Senegal River to Podor during hivernage, exploring the flooded waterfront, the colonial fort, and the river-island gardens on Île à Morfil. She eats street f…

Fatou spends her final evening in Saint-Louis with a pirogue ride across the river at sunset, a last meal in Guet Ndar, and a quiet reflection on the city's pulse. She shares what…

Fatou spends her final full day in Saint-Louis crossing the Faidherbe Bridge at dawn, sharing a calèche ride with a local elder, and soaking in the island's hivernage atmosphere be…

Fatou spends Assumption Day in Saint-Louis, reflecting on the city's layered history, the political tensions simmering beneath the surface, and the practical costs of living in thi…

Fatou takes a pirogue up the Senegal River from Saint-Louis, navigating the high waters of hivernage toward the Djoudj National Bird Sanctuary. Along the way she talks river pilots…

Fatou takes a slow morning stroll across the UNESCO island of Saint-Louis, from the Faidherbe Bridge to the cathedral, and ends with a thieboudienne lunch at La Linguere. Along the…

Fatou spends her fifth day in Saint-Louis in Guet Ndar, watching the fishermen prepare for the sea and learning about the community's fight against coastal erosion. She eats thiebo…

Fatou takes a pirogue out to the shifting river mouth, where the Senegal River meets the Atlantic. She reflects on the forces reshaping Saint-Louis — erosion, politics, and the liv…

Fatou explores the Langue de Barbarie's fragile shoreline, the vibrant chaos of Guet Ndar, and the quiet drama of Saint-Louis's changing river mouth, all while navigating the city'…

Fatou explores Saint-Louis's jazz heritage, visits the Guet Ndar fishing docks, takes a pirogue upriver, and reflects on the city's fading colonial elegance and the cost of living.…

Fatou takes the N2 north from Dakar and crosses the Faidherbe Bridge into Saint-Louis, a UNESCO island city at the height of the rainy season. She explores the colonial architectur…

On her final day in Dakar, Fatou ties up loose ends, checks on her CIE card application, gets caught in a massive thunderstorm, and reflects on the rhythms of her first week before…

Fatou spends her final full day in Dakar in a city holding its breath before a violent thunderstorm, packing up her new apartment, savouring one last plate of thieboudienne, and ta…

My drum is officially part of the apartment now, wedged between a fan and a stack of paperwork. But today, forgetting it wasn't an option—the beating heart of the city called. Join…

Fatou tests Dakar's new BRT and city buses, navigates a post-Magal city, hunts for a rental flat in Grand Yoff, and starts learning the art of sabar drumming. Practical tips on tra…

Fatou takes a ferry to Gorée Island on a hushed August morning, reflects on Dakar's Magal slowdown, and picks up the threads of her CIE application and Wolof lessons. A practical e…
