
Podcast

Dawit wakes to Enkutatash in Lalibela, navigating the steep alleys to Bete Giyorgis before dawn. He reflects on the history of the Zagwe dynasty, the cost of the church pass, and t…

Dawit arrives in Lalibela after a long drive from Gondar, navigating the final stretch through the Lasta highlands. He settles into a guesthouse on the ridge, explores the rock-hew…

Dawit spends his final full day in Gonder, navigating city works and security tensions while preparing for Meskel. He reflects on residency logistics, local costs, and the road ahe…

Dawit spends his final full day in Gonder, walking the Piazza at dusk, sharing a last meal with friends, and preparing for the long road north to Lalibela and the Simien Mountains.…

Day eleven in Gonder. I walk through the Piazza at dawn, visit a local bank to sort out residency logistics, and reflect on the city's quiet tension as Meskel approaches. ☕ Enjoyi…

Day ten in Gonder as the city prepares for Meskel. Dawit explores the Piazza, visits Debre Berhan Selassie, and navigates the practicalities of living here amid tense security and…

Dawit walks through Gonder’s Piazza district on a rainy September morning, reflecting on the restored Fasil Ghebbi, the tense security situation, and the quiet preparations for the…

Dawit walks through Gonder's restored royal enclosure, visits Debre Berhan Selassie, and reflects on the city's preparations for the Meskel festival while navigating daily life. ☕…

Dawit explores the newly restored Fasil Ghebbi and the serene Qusquam complex, discusses the ongoing security tensions in Amhara, shares practical costs for food and entry fees, an…

Dawit explores the restored Fasil Ghebbi, visits the quieter Qusquam complex, and reflects on Meskel preparations and travel logistics amid security tensions. ☕ Enjoying the show?…

Dawit explores the restored Fasil Ghebbi, visits Debre Berhan Selassie for its angel ceiling, and walks the quiet hills of Qusquam as Gondar prepares for the Meskel festival. ☕ En…

Dawit spends a rainy day in Gonder, exploring the Fasilides Bath and the Addis Alem quarter, observing Meskel preparations, and reflecting on the city's resilience amid security te…

Dawit spends a rainy day in Gonder visiting the Fasilides' Bath, watching the city prepare for Meskel, and sharing practical costs for coffee, meals, and getting around during the…

Dawit spends his second day in Gonder exploring the Fasil Ghebbi royal enclosure, watching the city prepare for Meskel, and navigating the practical realities of a city under emerg…

Dawit arrives in Gonder after a short, tense road hop from Gorgora, settles into a guesthouse, and walks the wet streets past Fasil Ghebbi. He reflects on the security situation, t…

On his final full day in Gorgora, Dawit takes one last boat trip, settles his bill at the guesthouse, and reflects on the cost of slow living by Lake Tana before heading east to La…

Dawit spends his final day in Gorgora before heading east, taking one last tankwa crossing to a monastery, checking in on the new eco resort, and reflecting on the town's quiet tra…

In the final days of the kiremt season, Dawit walks the high-water shoreline of Lake Tana, checks in on the new Gorgora Eco Resort's arrival, and reflects on the town's quiet rhyth…

On day four in Gorgora, Dawit explores the rocky shoreline at Lake Tana's seasonal high, watches ospreys hunt, visits Susenyos' palace ruins, and reflects on the slow rhythms of th…

On day three in Gorgora, Dawit experiences the tail end of the Ashenda festival, checks out the new eco lodge's impact on the waterfront, and considers the town's future against it…
