
Podcast

Day four in Jijiga: navigating the dusty Karamara ridge, settling into a Badda 'As rental, and exploring the deep social rituals of Somali café culture and livestock trade. ☕ Enjo…

Day three in Jijiga: navigating the camel markets, settling residency logistics, and tasting the city's distinct café culture before planning the trek north to Lalibela. ☕ Enjoyin…

Dawit explores the livestock trade, the Fooq Dheere quarter, and the local café culture in Jijiga's Somali Region capital. ☕ Enjoying the show? Help keep every episode free — buym…

We leave the walled city of Harar today, driving east across the dry boulder country to Jijiga, the capital of the Somali Region. I explore the livestock markets, the old Fooq Dhee…

Dawit spends his last full day in Harar, navigating construction in Jugol, visiting Bun Coffee Shop, and preparing for the journey north to Lalibela. ☕ Enjoying the show? Help kee…

On my final full day in the walled city of Harar, I navigate the dust of ongoing urban upgrades, visit Bun Coffee Shop for one last macchiato, and reflect on the changing landscape…

Day twelve in Harar finds Dawit navigating the dust of ongoing renovation works inside the walled city, visiting Bun Coffee Shop for a final macchiato, and reflecting on the shifti…

Day eleven in Harar finds Dawit navigating roadworks in Jugol, hunting for a long-term rental in Fayda, and reflecting on the rising cost of living while enjoying a traditional cof…

Day ten in Harar sees Dawit navigating the ongoing construction in the walled city, visiting Bun Coffee Shop, and reflecting on the khat trade and hyena feeding as autumn settles o…

Dawit navigates the labyrinthine alleys of Jugol, visits Bun Coffee Shop for a traditional buna ceremony, and reflects on the ancient pact with the hyenas at Fallana Gate as autumn…

Day eight in Harar sees Dawit navigating residency bureaucracy, eating at Betemengist, visiting the Sherif Museum and Rimbaud House, enjoying coffee at Bun Coffee Shop, and attendi…

Dawit explores Harar’s evening rituals, from the khat markets in Aboker to the hyena feeding at Fallana Gate, while navigating residency bureaucracy and planning the journey north…

Day six in Harar sees Dawit navigating the labyrinthine alleys of Jugol, sorting residency paperwork at a local bank, and deepening his understanding of the city’s unique coffee tr…

Dawit explores the labyrinthine alleys of Harar Jugol, visits the Sherif Museum and Rimbaud House, shops at Shoa Gate market, hosts a coffee ceremony, and attends the hyena feeding…

Day four in Harar. Dawit explores the labyrinthine alleys of Jugol, navigates the morning market at Shoa Gate, and sits for a traditional coffee ceremony while discussing residency…

Dawit spends his third day in Harar Jugol, exploring the ancient coffee ceremony traditions, visiting Arthur Rimbaud’s house, and navigating the labyrinthine alleys of the walled c…

Day two in Harar. Dawit navigates the labyrinthine alleys of Jugol, explores the Grand Market at Shoa Gate, and witnesses the ancient pact of hyena feeding as dusk settles over the…

Dawit completes his long drive from Semera to Harar, settling into the UNESCO-listed walled city. He explores the labyrinthine alleys, visits the Rimbaud House, experiences the eve…

On my final full day in Semera, I handle the last banking runs and supply checks before heading north to Lalibela. We talk about the twin towns of Semera and Logia, the rising cost…

On the last full day in Semera, Dawit navigates residency paperwork, finalizes Danakil expedition supplies, and reflects on life in the Afar capital before heading north to Lalibel…
